tuff 72 4 door
#176
Posted 02 March 2017 - 08:59 PM
goodonya
#177
Posted 02 March 2017 - 09:12 PM
just hate it you have to muck about abit to
get it close..i will cut excess off tomorrow
and do other side which is worse.someone
has used a jack there lol...back sills before
the wheel arch have to b done both sides too
lol..
Edited by madtoranajzedded, 02 March 2017 - 09:13 PM.
#178 _76lxJAS_
Posted 02 March 2017 - 10:41 PM
Also por15 that area first then flat black or colot it if u want to?
#179
Posted 03 March 2017 - 07:51 PM
rares part is worse than the other.you
Cunning Stunts are absolute frOcksticks.
how do you let such crap out the door.
was looking forward to doing other side but
no rares have to take the fun away.ive shut
up shop because I cant b #@$^%&.i have 2 rear sills to get and i wont b getting it from you
cnuts..out of all the stuff i get 80 % goes
back.what the frOcks wrong with yas.
Never again will i get shit from yous..
Edited by madtoranajzedded, 03 March 2017 - 07:56 PM.
#180
Posted 03 March 2017 - 09:26 PM
#181
Posted 03 March 2017 - 09:48 PM
Im going to ask a couple guys i know if
They have a lhs guard thats buggered at
front but bottom is good..
I want to do bay in satin but i dont think
i can as its spose to be ..well not easy to
paint..me having stuff all experience
(Near zilch) in the plenum area it was
chataeu mauve but didnt look like it had
clear on it..how the hell did they spray it
in there..im thinking of just putting
Por15 like Jase said and use por15 top coat
thats in a can...can youget chateau mauve in
a solid color in 2 pack so i could paint it?
Edited by madtoranajzedded, 03 March 2017 - 09:52 PM.
#182
Posted 03 March 2017 - 10:14 PM
#183
Posted 03 March 2017 - 11:07 PM
#184
Posted 03 March 2017 - 11:42 PM
Yeah i know its metalic Gazza.just wanted to
Know if could get in solid color so its
easier to paint.im a very long way off
doing the body .if i can get it in solid i
can spray it in plenum area..
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#185
Posted 04 March 2017 - 12:35 AM
#186
Posted 04 March 2017 - 12:41 AM
Martys build thread the other day actually
seeing how he welded brackets to the rotisserie.
Marty to the rescue once again..
Edited by madtoranajzedded, 04 March 2017 - 12:42 AM.
#187
Posted 04 March 2017 - 05:30 PM
(1) prep & apply epoxy etch primer & let it dry. Use weld through primer where the welds are going to be run, approximately 20 mm wide same size as you masking tape width, brands like roberlo ect you can epoxy over it around the edges,
(2) rub it down & prep for any style of paint & obviously mask it off. 3 mix the 2 pack metalic chatue base coat, apply 3 wet coats 20 minute flash times & then 3 wet coats of clear & let it dry for 2 days. Or mix up some 2 pack solid black & apply 3 wet coats and allow to dry for 2 days. Put the idea of solid chatue out of your head it's like saying i have a potato but i want it to be a tomato has anyone seen a potato turn into a tomato ? It's totally different paint.
(3) When you go to the paint shop you can get some flattening base mixed in with the black say 25 % mixed volume & you decant the amount of colour you need after stiring,add the hardener stir it & then add the thinners & re stir & you're good to go my friend, Simples
#188
Posted 04 March 2017 - 05:39 PM
#190
Posted 04 March 2017 - 09:04 PM
#191
Posted 18 March 2017 - 10:35 PM
back to those lower fender replacements
another day..right now .with a little bit of
a clean i can prime the front up..
Old pics its a little cleaner than this..
Just done the plenum with first coat of
por..put it on a little too thick and shes
running..doesnt matter wont see it..
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#192
Posted 19 March 2017 - 11:55 AM
more strength .wasnt really happy with it
to start with.by weldeing the inside has
actually helped pull the panel back out.
Heeeps better than it was.little more to
do..pic..
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#193
Posted 19 March 2017 - 12:03 PM
happened...more work lol.must of happened
couple days ago.as ive been keeping an eye
on it and making sure i have the spit lined
up at the ends when moving..
i hope its not too bad..
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#194
Posted 19 March 2017 - 07:44 PM
in the bay but as i went done few adjustments
to gun and shes good..
Theres a few spots that need a little more
Primer.butoverall im reasonably happy with
myrushed effort
Jesus that stuff is potent
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Edited by madtoranajzedded, 19 March 2017 - 07:49 PM.
#195
Posted 19 March 2017 - 09:49 PM
some areas. i cleaned and cleaned and
cleaned before priming and still some
aluminium oxide has came out from
somewhere when i rotated it.
What grade dry sandpaper should i use guys..
240-320?
Cheers maz
Edited by madtoranajzedded, 19 March 2017 - 09:53 PM.
#196
Posted 26 March 2017 - 10:59 PM
priming ..found where it was coming from.
was in the rotisserie ends and the bit i
fabbed up to bonnet latch.blew some out and
taped it up
Looks heaps better now. 20170326_160454.jpg 543.3K 6 downloads
#197
Posted 26 March 2017 - 11:11 PM
Plenum is still not set on the runs.i didnt
think i put it on too thick,but after id
done it could see it slowly moving downwards.
Couldnt brush it ae would of pulled it out
and would of looked really crap..will
definately spray it on nxt time..
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#198 _GMH-001_
Posted 29 March 2017 - 12:08 AM
If you're rubbing primer to paint in an area you dont see 320 dry is fine. For everywhere else you see you need to decide if you're using a solid colour or metallic. Solid you can rub with 600 wet and paint over, for metallic you need to sand with minimum 800/1200 wet so you dont see the scratches from rubbing. Metallic is very thin compared to a solid. Not sure the spray gun you have but you want a 1.3/1.4mm tip gravity gun, screw the fluid needle all the way in (not too hard or you'll damage the needle tip) then screw out 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 turns, open the fan and test spray against paper. Hold gun about 200mm from paper in a still position and give a quick squirt of paint. Should result in a cigar shape approx 150mm high with even coverage throughout with a bit of misting towards the upper/lower edges. Too thick an application then screw fluid in approx 1/4 turn, not enough coverage screw out same amount and fine tune within that range. Spray at PSI about 30-40psi if using a HVLP gun. Definately practice painting something first about 600mm x 600mm that sits vertical (you'll find the run limit compared to laying flat) and overlap each pass by about 1/3, after that its just lots of practice to perfect it. Hope this can help you out
Oh and if you decide metallic, make your last coat a medium/wet coat to get the metallics sitting up properly, a wet coat as final will flood them and they lay flat which is no good. Also recommend youtube videos by TheGunman, he has a lot of very knowledgeable how-to videos for the inexperienced on gun set up, movement etc
#199
Posted 29 March 2017 - 08:50 PM
They will help me out plenty when the time
comes..
Im still undecided which way to go.lol.
I have an devilbiss gti pro .with 1.3 and
came with a 1.2 tip also which i havnt used.
Looks a great gun..
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#200 _GMH-001_
Posted 29 March 2017 - 11:48 PM
Yep top gun unfortunately it's all about the painter when you use that equipment lol I was undecided between that gun and the iwata wbx400 but went iwata as its made for the waterbourne paints aswell. TheGunman uses the devilbiss and has videos on the gti pro too so well worth checking when you're up to it. As for indecision a solid is easier to paint and buff up later compared to basecoats, look forward to your progress
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