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#26 StephenSLR

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Posted 03 May 2018 - 08:12 PM

Any experience with this product??

 

http://www.gmh-toran...-kbs-coastings/

 

http://www.gmh-toran...34-kbs-problem/

 

POR 15 is another one:

 

http://www.gmh-toran...ust-convertors/

 

http://www.gmh-toran...r-shoot-por-15/

 

http://www.gmh-toran...2-using-por-15/

 

http://www.gmh-toran...ic/30758-por15/

 

http://www.gmh-toran...air-or-replace/

 

http://www.gmh-toran...76-plenum-rust/

 

http://www.gmh-toran...nd-wheel-wells/

 

s



#27 StephenSLR

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Posted 03 May 2018 - 08:14 PM

^ These are just some of the threads here on both products; I just did a quick search, not a comprehensive list by any means both have been mentioned here many times.

 

s



#28 Mitchyboy

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Posted 03 May 2018 - 08:53 PM

^ These are just some of the threads here on both products; I just did a quick search, not a comprehensive list by any means both have been mentioned here many times.

s

Thanks Stephen
I reckon ive already read them all.
Plus ive read the full how to apply that kbs has online.
Im still unsure how far to go with the underside of my car.
If it aint broke dont fix it. Im not planning to put my car on a rotisserie because it doesnt need it. Ive been right underneath and inspected it and whoever had it previously has done the whole underside.
The whole underside of the car has already been painted and no rust visible.
Ive fully stripped the top side of the floor with a flap disc back to bare and it was a horrible job. And no rust at all.
I really dont want to strip the whole underside if i dont have too - one because its a shit job on your back but 2 because it will be a waste of time and money aswell if it has already been done.
I still want to paint something hard and rust proof over the top of it - im obviously prepared to wire brush it up so the paint will take to the underside but i dont want to take it all the way back to bare metal.
Unsure if kbs is the right product to use after all the research ive done and no one has seemed to have painted it over existing paint.
I have brought the kbs kit which i planned to do the inside and underneath with but now i dunno what to do.


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#29 308 Sunbird

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Posted 04 May 2018 - 09:34 AM

Mitch I have used KBS top and bottom of the floor pan of my hatch- bloody huge job but worth it I recon.

If underneath is already done great, then stripping the inside to clean metal isn't that hard. I think the 

rust seal system works great and a great piece of mind. It can be painted over so I would be using top 

and bottom of all your repairs your doing as well.



#30 Heath

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Posted 04 May 2018 - 09:45 AM

Bloody hell, I just did my whole hatch floor inside and out in KBS on a rotisserie. I wanted to do it thoroughly so there was no question it was happening, but it was NOT a quick job at all.

Next time I'm getting the car media blasted.

#31 Mitchyboy

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Posted 04 May 2018 - 11:41 AM

Mitch I have used KBS top and bottom of the floor pan of my hatch- bloody huge job but worth it I recon.
If underneath is already done great, then stripping the inside to clean metal isn't that hard. I think the
rust seal system works great and a great piece of mind. It can be painted over so I would be using top
and bottom of all your repairs your doing as well.

Thanks sunbird
Yeah mate i want to kbs underneath for sure.
I do plan on using it everywhere i can.
When u used it over existing paint how did u prep it before applying?
Thats what im unsure about and i dont want to stuff it up.
It needs to etch into something so i was planning to wire brush or scotch brite it up
But did u aqua clean it aswell? From waht i read that's only for bare metal and the did u also use the rust buster etch stuff it comes with? Is that necessary over painted surfaces?
Cheers



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#32 Cook

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Posted 04 May 2018 - 12:00 PM

Mitch, I cleaned up the underside of my WB ute with scotchbrite and elbow grease, just to get 30 odd year of crap off it.  I then painted it in Rustoleum roll bar and chassis paint in aerosol can.  It seems to be pretty strong and I believe a number of 4wd people use it. Came up pretty good for a daily driver.  Flipside, the Torana has been fully stripped back and underside sandblasted and repainted in stoneguard. Depends how far you want to go.  Have got a photo but having trouble uploading itCheers Ron



#33 Mitchyboy

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Posted 04 May 2018 - 02:33 PM

Mitch, I cleaned up the underside of my WB ute with scotchbrite and elbow grease, just to get 30 odd year of crap off it. I then painted it in Rustoleum roll bar and chassis paint in aerosol can. It seems to be pretty strong and I believe a number of 4wd people use it. Came up pretty good for a daily driver. Flipside, the Torana has been fully stripped back and underside sandblasted and repainted in stoneguard. Depends how far you want to go. Have got a photo but having trouble uploading itCheers Ron

Thanks Cook
I cant see the need to go to them extents if i dont need too, especially when someone has already done it
I plan to drive the Torana regularly so no need for a show car finish underneath
I just stumbled across this in my kbs searches.
So thats my plan
Torana up on high stands
Drop out everything then
Wire brush and scotch brite
Aqua clean and wash off
Let dry then 2 - 3 coats of KBS
Need to get these crappy jobs out the way so i can get onto the good stuff 48fa431acc38c3155997e90beab198bf.jpg

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#34 Heath

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Posted 05 May 2018 - 12:32 AM

You may want to check out:

http://www.kbs-coati...product/fusion/



#35 Mitchyboy

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Posted 22 July 2018 - 12:37 PM

Thanks Heath

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#36 Mitchyboy

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Posted 22 July 2018 - 12:43 PM

Quick update guys.
I havent had a chance to work on my torrie at all in the last 2 months. Had heaps on with work and wedding/bucks etc.
Worst of it all is I just snapped my collar bone and tore my pec playing oz tag last friday night so unfortunately it looks to be on hold for another 2 months
Pretty upset about it.
Hoping to get the car paint stripped/water jet and media blasted in my driveway in the coming fortnight just to keep things going and hopefully i can do light duties in 4-6weeks time.
Still motivated and been doing alot of research on parts etc


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#37 Shiney005

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Posted 22 July 2018 - 01:37 PM

The last time I spent long hours working on cars for weeks on end was when I broke my femur. I couldn't go to work, but somehow I would drag myself out to the shed every day. ^_^



#38 derrin71

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Posted 22 July 2018 - 03:21 PM

Wouldn't be much fun painting it under a car lying on your back. It goes on pretty runny which is why it self levels so well. If it drips on you is a real pain to get off your skin.I would be wearing disposable overalls, facemask, gloves, goggles etc. In other words full skin coverage.



#39 308mate

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Posted 22 July 2018 - 05:58 PM

ouch! broken collar bone seems to be a catalyst for getting torana projects up & running. I busted mine in a dirt bike accident,

I was out for 6 weeks which i used to kick off my hatch.

 

Good luck



#40 Rockoz

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Posted 23 July 2018 - 11:36 AM

Can do lots of things with one arm in a sling.



#41 THE ZODIAC

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Posted 23 July 2018 - 05:12 PM

Gday  Mitch

Congrats on the  sedan they look tough as in my book, all in all the body looks pretty good for its age most are shagged by now .

i feel your pain i broke an ankle years ago could only hobble around so i plonked the car up stands and did all my welding with blackets over my feet not to get

burnt from the weld splatter!   A bloke i worked with did lots of oxy welding with these  cars when they were new. One day he went into his locker grabbed a coat hanger cut the ends off and goes here ya go sport here is your torana gauge welding wire!

look up RUTS on the forum good sticky on how to do flares etc Cheers..........



#42 Mitchyboy

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Posted 29 July 2018 - 02:58 PM

Wouldn't be much fun painting it under a car lying on your back. It goes on pretty runny which is why it self levels so well. If it drips on you is a real pain to get off your skin.I would be wearing disposable overalls, facemask, gloves, goggles etc. In other words full skin coverage.

Thanks mate
I plan on suiting right up for all the paint works.
Ive brought some high stands and have a compressor with a spray gun so i plan on doing light coats but a few of them.
Its on the back burner at the momment until i can lay down on my back haha
Its the worst injury, i absolutely hate it already!
Plus now i got the flu so the absolute worse combo out

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#43 Mitchyboy

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Posted 29 July 2018 - 03:14 PM



Gday Mitch
Congrats on the sedan they look tough as in my book, all in all the body looks pretty good for its age most are shagged by now .
i feel your pain i broke an ankle years ago could only hobble around so i plonked the car up stands and did all my welding with blackets over my feet not to get
burnt from the weld splatter! A bloke i worked with did lots of oxy welding with these cars when they were new. One day he went into his locker grabbed a coat hanger cut the ends off and goes here ya go sport here is your torana gauge welding wire!
look up RUTS on the forum good sticky on how to do flares etc Cheers..........


Thanks mate.

Ill definetly look into RUTS.
As you can see from my photos the flares have been butchered so ill prob be posting up pics for some advice on here soon.
It did come with flares and all attached but im unsure if i should re use the ones i have or to buy a whole new kit, the ones i have need a bit of work and were attached with large tech screws etc. Plus they are damaged in places.
Prob can be fixed but unsure if its worth it.
Ill post close up photos and see what u guys think.
The bonnet scoop i have is plastic and it was only screwed down too and where the screws were its cracked etc.
I want the A9x wider rear flares on the back as well so ill prob buy a whole new kit.
On closer inspection even the spoiler is cracked in the middle and is plastic (are they all plastic and the scoops?) also they screwed that down from the top but thats supposed to be fixed from beneath i thought.
Lots of work to do sucks with the collar bone/pec injury.
Im hoping in a couple of weeks ill be able to at least move my arm enough to help guide a grinder and my mig welder
Cheers

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#44 Mitchyboy

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Posted 23 September 2018 - 11:16 PM

So i tried a little welding with a broken collar bone
Prob shouldnt have attempted the floor patch as i hurt my self and restrained my neck climbing under the car7ae273fa82cd19cca4dc8c25d2a6c9b0.jpgeaf1fb7f4a299f6f35c8673b500855d9.jpg5050a22cce0a9e9fdb36a1585a31aa34.jpg43a8dc4592d213c6e11b60f0f3850dea.jpg6fa8cbeb8665a4bc555c5bd63dd0b53e.jpge282b13a8908f65a4aa2b9c7d58b084a.jpg

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#45 Mitchyboy

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Posted 23 September 2018 - 11:21 PM

I also had a go of plugging up the rocker holes.
Practicing with my welding before i attempt the back windscreen repairs panel.
I also had a go of chemically stripping the doors with paint stripper.
It has cemented my decision for the media blast once all the rust repairs are completed haha what a mission
One door came off easy the other one same treatment and 3hrs later still looks like shit.
My time is better spent fabricating i reckon haa
2a46dd9fdfcfe3a2711ca4841a15dc7e.jpgb2bdcd8adc2ed70443db2bca17961d59.jpgaf1db86661328bce4addc4b68e042bed.jpge25732f0d78ac175de30d22cc7c589db.jpg

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#46 Mitchyboy

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Posted 23 September 2018 - 11:34 PM

I started to fabricate the lip repair/plenum chamber repair where it was previously butchered.
I have decided to smooth out the firewall as i wont be using the stock heater box. I made up a new firewall and welded it over the old. I will be installing the battery in the boot as well so i will be replacing the damaged battery tray with flat sheet metalf4dcd36743ac4e64717f2f9d91c6b41c.jpg1034b6213edd148f6a98a1a4f8a5f394.jpgf1d68f345ea243a484dc93cfd80ba6af.jpg799a6a38c1c39661eb856ff8ad70d46f.jpg77936bfced0e677098696852e2d35774.jpgc21b6f0fe633dcc288ea7b8f4fff8def.jpg25e7e5d2e51d886a1270f00d106e2d59.jpg17e8c7e014c9a76d2279770e5f6b09ad.jpg764ba12ba4a1df648403bb17fdaaff8d.jpg

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More photos of the firewall panel fabfd8562308c4472638d7bf49f38b7d6de.jpg5fc216dd0b78ff4432a806c5ab1103dd.jpgc18f171a704f3cff382d95922c679e49.jpgccf2d8e2e97684793e5b15604f855735.jpgbf50e6f6ccfe9d708192932cc7636bbf.jpg9182c09dfbe97068a4a576574053ad7d.jpg803e82134405a4b21c3fe7107aeaf269.jpg9b3ea58d6e91d88011f66e2fd47bf6d0.jpgb539481700adb8f72b101ce9e46f1b41.jpg

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#47 Mitchyboy

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Posted 23 September 2018 - 11:39 PM

Once the top of the plenum is welded back in place i will cut the lip back as close to stock as possible.
I also started to plug weld the small holes around the front windshield.
I also made small patch repair panels to weld in. Tedious job.
I found rust where the bonnet hinges go and had to cut out the whole section.
Patch welded in the new metal 7f876fa264e1098f331d875af9c9a9e8.jpge2f00a41f39d198aa8b1a128418bc4a2.jpgfaad7abcd97e8dc46d6a7eb3ba569886.jpga0d35d610ea179eb48b1f26d7f436358.jpg02f317d99c2bc37eaa1680ae47c3f5df.jpg1857a44515b6b04bbae3fc6cbd7af038.jpgbc5f36cbea2bcd1b9a8ba68d2c4911a3.jpg4c6eb3871603167874f8ea66e6389019.jpg0195b011bdafebc0a165c4bcf3e4dafc.jpg

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#48 rodomo

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Posted 23 September 2018 - 11:39 PM

I like the multi purpose portable work bench. I made one out of a BBQ frame. My mig sits on an old mower frame.

#49 Mitchyboy

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Posted 23 September 2018 - 11:43 PM

More photosa769ba68b7e1dab1a539c9097bb09ebb.jpge4c0a4e2a2a60a40523c5245dae5300d.jpg2848ecedec28616acf927be5ec7879f0.jpg9d30cde66bca9bc22e216357fa196b15.jpg13b8bdd682ab4e385c2ce60eb1f3e69e.jpg9aa5463196a52f546652ec865c6b3c5e.jpgb532d2db66503a3be0e4870d75b04fb7.jpga28b74308b5705089fcd10a8f6fb6827.jpgfa4b29176a3454baf4949c5c96ea84cf.jpg

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Photos4777c81f94d161ece49f9e1468efff10.jpg593e9692a85b62e2d382b73682026035.jpg

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The neighbors must hate me
Sat and sunday grinding away hahaa
Has to be done

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I like the multi purpose portable work bench. I made one out of a BBQ frame. My mig sits on an old mower frame.

Thanks dude
My bro found it in his shed when he brought his place so i turned it into my work bench/ welding trolley/tool storage hahaa
Hardwood spotted gum floor and all haha

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#50 Mitchyboy

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Posted 24 September 2018 - 09:19 AM

I also brought some gear.
After doing plenty of research I have decided to do 2pak paint job.
So i got myself the epotec 408 green/grey epoxy primer kit, 3 litres of body filler and the high fill primer to match the system.
Everything i need to get me up to colour stage. All paints compatible and suggested by the supplier, including thinners and all.
I brought myself the 3m full face mask respirator to do the primers.
I also even brought myself a 2nd hand muncie 4speed gearbox.
It has been fully reconditioned.
The guy said it was an m21 but after looking online at how to determine your muncie and counting the splines and looking at the gears it looks like its an m22 rock crusher. What a steal.
Me a happy boy!!!!!!
Gotta hurry up and get the body finished now.46492dd3d9b5f4564ed768d36f318f19.jpgaebc6fa2926e07a086fa4a0cfb0b7e2a.jpgb44ed398a86e90a69dd6c7ad1bcfb637.jpgea6e51177a74cce9775051e3c94ea364.jpg63b715022f6e1ac4acad1a0e43a31ed4.jpgf6beb0f5d1ffbe578a4588881c6de8fb.jpg63bd59adb70a33e03d071916f29c6066.jpg

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