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Heath's racecar project

Started by Heath , Oct 01 2009 08:27 PM

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230 replies to this topic

#76 Heath

I like cars.

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Name:Heath
Location:Eastern Suburbs, Melbourne
Car:Heavily Modified UC Sunbird Hatchback
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Posted 16 November 2009 - 02:26 PM

Surely you will be doing many towing hours with this one if you are racing anywhere with Stewart...

Now THAT's funny!!! :spoton:

Cheers, and racehatch if I come into some inheritance I might aim to get mine looking like a four door replica of yours

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#77 _Squarepants_

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Posted 16 November 2009 - 05:59 PM

Lookin good so far mate! :rockon:

I was thinking about your diff and hydraulic handbrake today... You may be better off with a Commy BW with the separate drum brakes inside the discs so you can hook the cables up to it and have the hygy one plumbed into the calipers. From what I understand the skyline ones dont have the separate drum setup.

Just a thought mate, I don't really know how hydraulic hand brakes are plumbed in so this may be a fruitless idea. :dontknow:

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#78 Heath

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Posted 16 November 2009 - 09:15 PM

How does the handbrake work on an R31?

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#79 _Lamo_

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Posted 16 November 2009 - 11:02 PM

This link might be of help Heath.

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#80 micklx

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 08:27 PM

Love your work Heath, great to see you doing all the hard work yourself.
Not taking the easy way out like me........

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#81 Heath

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 08:34 AM

haha cheers.

Re: the Commodore caliper discussion... I don't think it will be a problem with the R31 calipers, but I will look into it more. It doesn't really matter how the park brake works as long as it works, the hydraulic handbrake just splits the system up and sorts it out in its own master cylinder - the rear calipers don't know that I'm pushing them on with my hand rather than my foot as the signal comes through the same input

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#82 _Squarepants_

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 04:25 PM

haha cheers.

Re: the Commodore caliper discussion... I don't think it will be a problem with the R31 calipers, but I will look into it more. It doesn't really matter how the park brake works as long as it works, the hydraulic handbrake just splits the system up and sorts it out in its own master cylinder - the rear calipers don't know that I'm pushing them on with my hand rather than my foot as the signal comes through the same input

Rogee! Was just a thought, they don't happen too often so I just wanted to tell someone I had one. :blink2:

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#83 Heath

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 04:34 PM

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#84 _mick74lh_

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Posted 20 November 2009 - 02:27 PM

Good stuff Heath just checked this thread out. You're not wasting any time with the rust repairs. Look forward to giving you a hand closer to christmas.

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#85 _Squarepants_

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Posted 20 November 2009 - 05:28 PM

So Heath, this being a race car and all, are you gonna attack the boot lid and doors with a hole saw?
I read somewhere that less weight means more fast... :tease:

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#86 Heath

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Posted 21 November 2009 - 09:57 AM

Do you have mind reading abilities? I was looking at hole saws yesterday hehe

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#87 wot179

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Posted 21 November 2009 - 10:10 AM

If you can drill a hole in it you can probably cut it out and chuck it ............

that includes inner skins on your bonnet,doors and bootlid.

You dont need inner guards either.

Or soundproofing,or door rubbers or headlining or operational windows or glass windows for that matter.

Cut out the dash and chuck it cos you only need a tacho,oil pressure and water temp gauges mounted on a flimsy bit of aluminium.

Dont forget the back seat,passengers seat and carpet while you are at it.

Dont forget to chuck most of the exhaust system too....

It'll rattle a bit and be a bit noisy,not to mention it will leak a bit ,but who cares?

youre not gunna drive it in the rain anyway,are you? Posted Image

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#88 Heath

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Posted 21 November 2009 - 11:00 AM

I can't do things that are too radical, because I still need it to look streetable for rego.

I've got a fair few plans of weight reduction, but the overall theme is that:
* If it's weight up the front that can be moved backwards or lightened up, I'll go to reasonable measures to deal with it, and
* If it's heavy enough to weigh the car down significantly overall (regardless of position) and I don't really need it, I'll consider dealing with that. eg. rear doors

I think I will still keep the windscreen wipers and heater setup

Edited by Heath, 21 November 2009 - 11:01 AM.

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#89 _Squarepants_

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Posted 21 November 2009 - 08:44 PM

Do you have mind reading abilities? I was looking at hole saws yesterday hehe

Yes I do. What are you thinking right now?... Don't bother telling me, I already know.
:dontknow:

You're on the right train of thought anyway. It's illegal to modify the bonnet supports (dunno how most scoop holes get through!), and you don't want the dash looking too industrial in case you (or your passenger) has to headbutt it in the unfortunate case of an accident. If it's registered as a 5 seater then it has to have seating and restraints for 5 people, windows all have to be operational (and lexen "glass" is soooo expensive) and the exhaust is a no brainer. Demister and wipers are a must and by the look of your "workshop" you want rubbers too.
Something to consider... My car, with a red 202 and the battery in the boot is actually slightly heavier on the rear wheels than the front, and that's with my big fat ass sitting in it too. Ideally you want a 50/50 balance, but I'm sure you already know that.
Keep up the good work champ! :clappin:

Edited by Squarepants, 21 November 2009 - 08:46 PM.

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#90 Heath

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Posted 21 November 2009 - 10:33 PM

Yep standard overall dash but obviously the guages will all be different. Plastic windows in the rear half of the car, fibreglass rear doors with no side protection, no rear seat at all, registered as a 2-seater.

Gas tank where the rear seat goes (low and inside wheelbase), battery in rear LHS footwell (low and offset driver weight)

Lots of lightweight stuff up the front... watch this space

How the hell is your car heavier at the rear than the front?

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#91 _Squarepants_

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 04:51 PM

Not sure mate, surprised the hell outta me too. I put it on a supa dupa set of scales at my mates mechanical shop, it weighs each corner, and it reckons it's heavier at the back. It's not by much, I was actually even more surprised at how evenly balanced it was. I can't find the print out atm to give you exact figures. I do remember it was 1480kg all up (with me in it) so it's no light weight. Maybe I put more weld into the back when I fixed all the rust???

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#92 rodomo

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 04:55 PM

Full tank of fuel? :huh:

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#93 Heath

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 06:45 PM

This is exactly what I didn't wanna hear. Did you have a few bodies in the boot by chance?

Edited by Heath, 22 November 2009 - 06:54 PM.

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#94 _Squarepants_

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 07:07 PM

Maybe the caravan I was towing had something to do with it??? :tease:

Prolly bit more than half a tank, And no, I always transport bodies in the boot of a black Chrysler 300C... :tease:

Battery in the footwell would help. Don't forget mine has a battery, sub, 2 amps, tools and 2 spare tyres in the boot. If I pulled all that sh#t out it would prolly go back the other way.

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#95 _LXChev366_

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Posted 07 December 2009 - 11:33 AM

Yep standard overall dash but obviously the guages will all be different. Plastic windows in the rear half of the car, fibreglass rear doors with no side protection, no rear seat at all, registered as a 2-seater.

Gas tank where the rear seat goes (low and inside wheelbase), battery in rear LHS footwell (low and offset driver weight)

Lots of lightweight stuff up the front... watch this space

How the hell is your car heavier at the rear than the front?

I am sure that you cant have the gas tank in the cabin. In CAMS events you are not even allowed to have a fuel connection in the cabin, let alone a tank. The fuel line can pass through the cabin (with no connections in the cabin).
I am not sure on ANDRA rules, but I'll bet they would be similar.
I am only offering this info as a guide to what is the standard for thier events.

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#96 Heath

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Posted 07 December 2009 - 01:23 PM

I think if you rocked up at a racetrack with a dual fuel granny spec XF wagon you'd get laughed at, but that's about it.

If it's legitimately registered and roadworthy, there should be no issues doing sprints and shit in it

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#97 _LXChev366_

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Posted 07 December 2009 - 04:27 PM

It doesnt matter if the car is registered or not it still has to comply with the "General requirements of automobiles". Schedule B - 11 says...

11. save for 1st Category automobiles, be fitted with a bulkhead constructed from a flame- and liquid-proof
material. If the material is clear it shall be a minimum of 6mm thick. This bulkhead shall effectively seal the
cockpit from the fuel tank or re-fuelling system;

so in your case, mount the tank in the cabin and then fully encase it, which would make refilling a pain.

By the way here are the regs...

http://www.camsmanua...le_A_B_Q409.pdf

The only time you can argue about the cars "equipment or componenets" is if the car came like that from the factory.

Think about this for a second....you run wide on a turn and end up in the sand trap and the car rolls onto its roof....do you really want all that fuel in the cabin with you...

here is the regs for speed events....
http://www.camsmanua...g_Regs_Q409.pdf

Edited by LXChev366, 07 December 2009 - 04:36 PM.

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#98 _BAILLIE_

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Posted 08 December 2009 - 12:56 PM

effectively seal the
cockpit from the fuel tank or re-fuelling system;

Im pretty sure that this is a roadworthy item.

Leave it in the boot or under the arse end. If in the boot you'd need to seal up the exposed panel where the back seat used to be.

2c

Oh, and nice work btw. Wish i had a mig, they're fun.