chopper theres a set of fibreglass uc bumpers on ebay at the moment, buy now for $150
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CHOPPER's Drag Only UC
Started by
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, Jan 11 2006 07:58 PM
180 replies to this topic
#102
Heath
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Posted 27 January 2006 - 08:45 PM
He doesn't use eBay. My offer still stands to buy anything he wants off eBay if something exceptional comes up that CHOPPER is interested in.
Edited by Heath, 27 January 2006 - 08:46 PM.
#103
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Posted 27 January 2006 - 09:03 PM
Fibreglass bars would be good, but replacement panels are last on the list. This morning I picked up the H/D adjustable rear control arms. Hopefully the entire rear suspension ( bar the shockers, they can wait ) will be in tomorrow. Then I have an LH front end to rebuild and install. If the rack is OK, that should set me back less than $500. Once again, bar the shockers.
#104
Heath
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Posted 27 January 2006 - 09:34 PM
Phwah you are spending some serious money on this vehicle, but I'm sure it will be awesome. If you wanna hand fitting anything, you know I'm in your area mate.
#105
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Posted 27 January 2006 - 09:57 PM
Once the front and rear suspensions are complete, that's the most expensive bits out of the way.
#106
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Posted 27 January 2006 - 10:13 PM
well even if you dont want them now... you should at least get the guys email so u can contact him when u do..
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#107
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Posted 27 January 2006 - 10:41 PM
If you need glass stuff ask TORANR AMORE he has a contact that does it all, his about to glass all his sedan, got all the panels and now the pain of preping them to fit..
Chopper your spending a fair amount on the front end, should come up well..Im about to buy all my gear next week to get my hatch rolling and fit the motor.. Was it a nessesity to rebuils the front end, surely a good condition used front end would be ok for a straight line car..with new balljoints ofcourse for safety..
What did the rear controll arms cost you? And are you using them to be able to udjust the diff axes so it dont torque flex back and lose traction? What is the reason for the udjustables mate.. Or are you gona use this car for more then a straight line?
John
Chopper your spending a fair amount on the front end, should come up well..Im about to buy all my gear next week to get my hatch rolling and fit the motor.. Was it a nessesity to rebuils the front end, surely a good condition used front end would be ok for a straight line car..with new balljoints ofcourse for safety..
What did the rear controll arms cost you? And are you using them to be able to udjust the diff axes so it dont torque flex back and lose traction? What is the reason for the udjustables mate.. Or are you gona use this car for more then a straight line?
John
#108
Heath
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Posted 27 January 2006 - 10:50 PM
John, I realise that Rick can get hold of Fibreglass products, but $150 for a set of bumpers? That's cheaper than a 2nd hand set of them a lot of the time!
I think sometimes it's better to snap them up when they come around...
EDIT: Just found them on eBay. $150 sounds good but they're up in Qld. Price of postage for bumpers is not to be sneazed at i imagine; talk to TORANA AMORE lol
I think sometimes it's better to snap them up when they come around...
EDIT: Just found them on eBay. $150 sounds good but they're up in Qld. Price of postage for bumpers is not to be sneazed at i imagine; talk to TORANA AMORE lol
Edited by Heath, 27 January 2006 - 10:51 PM.
#109
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Posted 27 January 2006 - 10:57 PM
I could've done this heaps quicker and cheaper. But I decided to strip it back to a bare shell and start from scratch. That way, hopefully I shouldn't miss anything. Not everything needs replacing in the front end. The car is a UC and had a UC front end in it. However, another forum member gave me a complete LH front end for free, as he was moving house and had just installed a UC front end in his LH. As this is only going to see straight line action, the extra handling benefits of re-installing the UC front end would be a waste. So now I have a spare UC front end, if ever I should need it. At this stage, the steering rack is the only part that may not be replaced. Not much goes wrong with them and they are fairly easy to replace when in the vehicle. Most of the other front end parts are easier to replace with the crossmember out of the vehicle. Which is why it's being done now.
The rear control arms are much stronger than original items. Several forum members have posted images on how they have managed to bend theirs through normal street driving. The adjustable top arms are so the diff pinion angle can be adjusted to help launch the car better. The 4 cost me $520 from MacDonald Brothers in Thomastown VIC.
As for the fibreglass panels, they may never be used. Cost is the first consideration. Most of the steel panels are useable, so it's something I could leave for now. Obviously the less weight the car carries the better. But as I have said, that's one of the last things on the list.
The rear control arms are much stronger than original items. Several forum members have posted images on how they have managed to bend theirs through normal street driving. The adjustable top arms are so the diff pinion angle can be adjusted to help launch the car better. The 4 cost me $520 from MacDonald Brothers in Thomastown VIC.
As for the fibreglass panels, they may never be used. Cost is the first consideration. Most of the steel panels are useable, so it's something I could leave for now. Obviously the less weight the car carries the better. But as I have said, that's one of the last things on the list.
#110
Heath
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Posted 27 January 2006 - 11:32 PM
Hey Chopper, are you gutting the doors and that kind of thing to reduce a bit of weight?
Edited by Heath, 27 January 2006 - 11:38 PM.
#111
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Posted 28 January 2006 - 07:39 AM
If it's not needed, it won't be going on the car.
#112
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Posted 28 January 2006 - 12:57 PM
Yeh cool Chopper i understand about replacing bits now rather then doing 2x the work later..
With my controll arms on the hatch i had them boxed with a thick gauge flat bar.. I been told thats all thats needed to tuffen them up in a LX, also used Nolathane bushes(hard compound) to stiffen it up in the arse end.. As my car is for the street and some strip just for fun i didnt need to worry to much about traction or launching.. Plus with 295x50s i shouldnt have many traction problems for now lol
Do you plan on ever road reg this UC, if not id rid the door hinges and weld the doors on. That should drop some unwanted wait and maybe some perspexs windows.. Cheaper them fibreglass and might drop the weight substantualy..But if you ever want to road reg this car my obove idea is no good..lol
By setting up the car properly in the first place leaves you with many options of power plant down the road after you get sick of the 202, maybe an RB30 turbo that should make it a scary fun race car..or even a stroker 202 with blower or turbo..
John
With my controll arms on the hatch i had them boxed with a thick gauge flat bar.. I been told thats all thats needed to tuffen them up in a LX, also used Nolathane bushes(hard compound) to stiffen it up in the arse end.. As my car is for the street and some strip just for fun i didnt need to worry to much about traction or launching.. Plus with 295x50s i shouldnt have many traction problems for now lol
Do you plan on ever road reg this UC, if not id rid the door hinges and weld the doors on. That should drop some unwanted wait and maybe some perspexs windows.. Cheaper them fibreglass and might drop the weight substantualy..But if you ever want to road reg this car my obove idea is no good..lol
By setting up the car properly in the first place leaves you with many options of power plant down the road after you get sick of the 202, maybe an RB30 turbo that should make it a scary fun race car..or even a stroker 202 with blower or turbo..
John
Edited by TORANASS, 28 January 2006 - 12:58 PM.
#113
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Posted 28 January 2006 - 02:04 PM
It will never be registered. I had a similar idea about the doors, but I'm not sure if the law makers would let me run the UC with my intended idea. I'll ask when I get to Heathcote in March.Do you plan on ever road reg this UC, if not id rid the door hinges and weld the doors on. That should drop some unwanted wait and maybe some perspexs windows.. Cheaper them fibreglass and might drop the weight substantualy.
#114
Heath
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Posted 28 January 2006 - 02:17 PM
Does that mean you were intending to weld up the front doors also? I don't think there would be any issues doing it to the rears, but it would make it a pain in the arse doing any work around the back seats, parcel shelf etc. Even installing part of a front seat from the back would be a pain in the arse.
#115
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Posted 28 January 2006 - 02:46 PM
As I said, I need to know what the powers that be will and will not allow. Anyway, I'd already come up with ways to overcome the issues you raised.
#116
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Posted 28 January 2006 - 09:41 PM
Rear suspension has now been installed. As I haven't bought the rear shockers yet, obviously they haven't been installed. I threw on the first pair of wheels and tyres I could lay my hands on and put them on, just a pair of piddly 15x7's. The rear control arm bolts are finger tight at this stage, as the vehicle needs to be laden and on all four wheels before being torqued to specs. Next job on the list is to dis-assemble the LH front end and inspect parts for damage. A full condition report should be made by next weekend.
#117
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Posted 30 January 2006 - 01:55 PM
sounds like everything is moving along well then Chop, cant wait to see some more pics.
#118
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Posted 30 January 2006 - 04:31 PM
Hey just wanted to say I had some time on my hands and have really enjoyed reading this thread, I building a uc as well and are doing the lighten thing as well, right now the car is to its bones and all thats going in it is what it takes to get it road legal, ( all the bumpers ,heater, dash, most of the interor etc)
this thread has given me some great info keep up the good work chopper
antony
Hey ps I will be posting so pick of my project in afew weeks < I also hate the UC lights so I paneled them out, smoothed out were the rear bumper was and have put 3 50mm round lights each side that gromet in, in the old lights place, some thing different
this thread has given me some great info keep up the good work chopper
antony
Hey ps I will be posting so pick of my project in afew weeks < I also hate the UC lights so I paneled them out, smoothed out were the rear bumper was and have put 3 50mm round lights each side that gromet in, in the old lights place, some thing different
#119
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Posted 30 January 2006 - 05:07 PM
Looks like I have some serious competition to get the UC finished first. Better pull my finger out after my legs heal. They are a bit sore now, just over did it a bit on Saturday night. Don'y expect details of what happened to be posted in a big hurry.
#120
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Posted 30 January 2006 - 05:10 PM
Ive had a bit of a read myself of the thread and all i can say is best of luck chop!
Do yourself a favour and grab a copy of the ANDRA tech rules and try and build the car with some of those rules in mind. THe rear doors can be welded.. even teh passenger door.. but i think teh drivers door should ( must) be left openable incase of a crash... ( thinking of it.. i'd leave teh front two doors openable!!). The book should give you a few guildelines and that way no one could knock you back based on rules.
Good luck with it, I reckon you'll get the times your after easily and its a good start. I'm sure once youve gotten those times.. you'll get bitten by the bug and end up wanting alot faster!
Cheers.
Do yourself a favour and grab a copy of the ANDRA tech rules and try and build the car with some of those rules in mind. THe rear doors can be welded.. even teh passenger door.. but i think teh drivers door should ( must) be left openable incase of a crash... ( thinking of it.. i'd leave teh front two doors openable!!). The book should give you a few guildelines and that way no one could knock you back based on rules.
Good luck with it, I reckon you'll get the times your after easily and its a good start. I'm sure once youve gotten those times.. you'll get bitten by the bug and end up wanting alot faster!
Cheers.
#121
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Posted 30 January 2006 - 05:13 PM
I thought that would be the case with the doors. Just to get it going sooner, they will probably be operating as GMH intended for now. Can the ANDRA book be bought over the counter in Melb, or do I have to get it through ANDRA from Adelaide?
#122
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Posted 30 January 2006 - 05:40 PM
Anyway after I get the kids to bed ( back to school tomorrow ), I'll be dis-assembling the front end. Provided the rack is OK, it will be back in the car by Sunday. Here's hoping.
#123
Heath
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Posted 30 January 2006 - 05:50 PM
Good to hear Chop. I'm back to school tomorrow too = /
If you have any dramas with the front end, as you know I just came into one with the Sunbird, it could be LH, LX or UC (probably changed with the engine conversion but I don't know) so talk to me if you need anything from it.
If you have any dramas with the front end, as you know I just came into one with the Sunbird, it could be LH, LX or UC (probably changed with the engine conversion but I don't know) so talk to me if you need anything from it.
#124
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Posted 30 January 2006 - 06:36 PM
The LH front end I'm going to strip tonight is complete apart from the shockers. I got it free from another forum member. Always nice to have spare parts. Provided you have the room for them.
#125
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Posted 30 January 2006 - 09:34 PM
The front end has been completely dis-assembled. Good and bad news about the rack. There's no play in the sector shaft, but there is at the inner ends of the tie rods. If I can get a kit cheap enough ( if at all ) I'll rebuild it myself. Otherwise, it's a couple of hundred for a change over unit. Front coils have been cut, so they get binned. Both tie rod ends and all four ball joints will be replaced regardless of how good they appear. The inner control arm bushes don't look too bad, so they may not be replaced. I was quoted $190 for a pair of 90/10 front shockers, so they can wait. I'll have a better look at the rest of it tomorrow.
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