
VN/Nissan B/W Vs LH diffs.
#76
Posted 13 May 2007 - 12:40 PM
#77
_rorym_
Posted 13 May 2007 - 01:05 PM
Bolt up Face 1439mm disc to disc. I can live with that. We took 10mm off each side while it was apart. One of the tubes had a slight bend in it from a rear ender.So un touched it is 12mm wider on each side..1/2"..You could get away with that on a std Torana. You can see what I mean about the handbrake cable going into a single pull on the bracket..Just need to attach it to the UC handbrake bolted on the floor. See the Full Spool?.If you measure the distance from BUF to BUF, it won't be the same as the track.
Assorted BUF measurements:
LH - UC: 1435 mm
VK II & VL: 1526 mm
Most VN: 1546 mm
I didn't bother with the L34/A9X measurement, as it's fairly unlikely you'll find one.
Forgot to weight it before I put the brakes on. Just have to shorten some brake lines and get Datto to do the braded steel lines and the arse is finished!! WooHoo!




R




#78
_ToranaGuy_
Posted 13 May 2007 - 06:35 PM
Are the nissan rear calipers better than the Commy rear calipers?
Cheers
ToranaGuy
#79
_rorym_
Posted 13 May 2007 - 06:36 PM
R
#80
Posted 13 May 2007 - 07:15 PM
Neither better or worse than the otherAre the nissan rear calipers better than the Commy rear calipers?
Nissan has built in handbrake
Commy does not
But
The Nissan disc is smaller and thinner than the Commy
Pads are slightly harder to get in anything decent
And people... just because the rears don't do alot of work doesn't mean you should ignore them
If anything pay them extra attention
If you can make the rears work as hard as possible the fronts don't have to work as hard
Harder working fronts are hotter and more prone to fade
More front means less squat under brakes setting up for a corner
That means more front dive which unsettles the car and makes it harder to turn
It also drives the rear up especially with a big or poorly adjusted rear bar
This induces rear lockup and makes you think the rears are working too hard !!
But infact you need to make them work harder
Get the car to squat and settle more and the car will stop faster and be more stable pitching into the corner. Will corner flatter and be able to carry more corner speed
Faster laps !!
#81
_MRNOS_
Posted 13 May 2007 - 07:27 PM

#82
_rorym_
Posted 13 May 2007 - 07:29 PM
Jesus Datto!..You sound like Warren Willing!..Sheesh!.Neither better or worse than the other
Are the nissan rear calipers better than the Commy rear calipers?
Nissan has built in handbrake
Commy does not
But
The Nissan disc is smaller and thinner than the Commy
Pads are slightly harder to get in anything decent
And people... just because the rears don't do alot of work doesn't mean you should ignore them
If anything pay them extra attention
If you can make the rears work as hard as possible the fronts don't have to work as hard
Harder working fronts are hotter and more prone to fade
More front means less squat under brakes setting up for a corner
That means more front dive which unsettles the car and makes it harder to turn
It also drives the rear up especially with a big or poorly adjusted rear bar
This induces rear lockup and makes you think the rears are working too hard !!
But infact you need to make them work harder
Get the car to squat and settle more and the car will stop faster and be more stable pitching into the corner. Will corner flatter and be able to carry more corner speed
Faster laps !!
All correct though...
R
#83
_rorym_
Posted 13 May 2007 - 07:30 PM
Get to the shed and spray Black!..NOW!Ohh well Rory doesnt need good brakes he doesnt drive fast enough

R
#84
_MRNOS_
Posted 13 May 2007 - 07:32 PM
#85
Posted 13 May 2007 - 07:35 PM
Its not all about the power
#86
_Monkey_
Posted 13 May 2007 - 07:51 PM
#87
Posted 13 May 2007 - 08:23 PM
#88
_rorym_
Posted 14 May 2007 - 07:06 AM
R
#89
_rorym_
Posted 15 May 2007 - 05:26 PM
Same diff B/W 78...different length axles.Speaking of the Nissan B/W, regardless of length, do these axles slip straight into the tube of a Commy B/W?
To all the people that asked..
Aussie Diffs
Currumbin Qld
$395 to do the brackets
$195 to weld and redo the axles and rotors in HQ pattern.
Highly recommended.
Greg is the man to talk to..mention my name..Mine was a bit more as I had the full spool set up and new pinion bearings.
R
#90
Posted 15 May 2007 - 06:51 PM
#91
_rorym_
Posted 15 May 2007 - 08:36 PM
R
#92
_ToranaGuy_
Posted 26 May 2007 - 07:37 PM
Cheers
ToranaGuy
#93
_rorym_
Posted 27 May 2007 - 01:51 PM
Datto pretty much describes Yella when you jump on them...it seems to suck to the road at both front and rear...you can actually feel the rear sit down....makes it easier for me to know what I am looking for in the new car.Neither better or worse than the other
Are the nissan rear calipers better than the Commy rear calipers?
Nissan has built in handbrake
Commy does not
But
The Nissan disc is smaller and thinner than the Commy
Pads are slightly harder to get in anything decent
And people... just because the rears don't do alot of work doesn't mean you should ignore them
If anything pay them extra attention
If you can make the rears work as hard as possible the fronts don't have to work as hard
Harder working fronts are hotter and more prone to fade
More front means less squat under brakes setting up for a corner
That means more front dive which unsettles the car and makes it harder to turn
It also drives the rear up especially with a big or poorly adjusted rear bar
This induces rear lockup and makes you think the rears are working too hard !!
But infact you need to make them work harder
Get the car to squat and settle more and the car will stop faster and be more stable pitching into the corner. Will corner flatter and be able to carry more corner speed
Faster laps !!
R
#94
_jklumpp_
Posted 04 June 2007 - 03:53 PM
I've been looking for what diff to use, and have been recomended to go a VN diff - I understand that the skyline is basically the same?
So if I get a single spinner skyline, can I just get a commodore LSD and bolt it in?
#95
_MRNOS_
Posted 04 June 2007 - 04:04 PM
Im just about to send a VS ute diff off to get cut down for my cousins LC GTR, i'll post some pics when its doneSo how does this all translate for LJ?
I've been looking for what diff to use, and have been recomended to go a VN diff - I understand that the skyline is basically the same?
So if I get a single spinner skyline, can I just get a commodore LSD and bolt it in?
#96
_JBird_
Posted 04 June 2007 - 11:50 PM
Yes.So how does this all translate for LJ?
I've been looking for what diff to use, and have been recomended to go a VN diff - I understand that the skyline is basically the same?
So if I get a single spinner skyline, can I just get a commodore LSD and bolt it in?
As long as your single spinner is 28 Spline. The attractive thing about skyline diffs are their price.
#97
_jklumpp_
Posted 13 June 2007 - 02:00 PM
Maybe since this thread has started, they have had a run on them, because the prices I'm getting aren't that good!The attractive thing about skyline diffs are their price
So can anyone tell me how the Skyline width relates to LJ?
#98
_LX8VD69_
Posted 26 October 2007 - 04:53 PM
just cheat and get multi fit (chevy/ford stud pattern) rims, as i believe that skyline stud pattern is the same as ford/magna/chrysler and im sure othersThanx, was wondering if the bearing and bearing/axle retainer plate are the same. Will save me having to respline a commy axle.
cheers adam
#99
_rorym_
Posted 26 October 2007 - 05:09 PM
R
#100
_LX8VD69_
Posted 26 October 2007 - 06:27 PM
seriously though it sounds like the R31 diff is the way to go
adam
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